Grebaje Valley, Montenegro: Is It Worth Visiting + What to Do in Prokletije
Wondering whether Grebaje Valley deserves a spot in your Montenegro road trip? We’ve got all the details you need to decide – how to get there, where to stay and eat, and all the top things to do, including hiking in Prokletije National Park Montenegro and its gorgeous Volusnica loop trail.
Home to the “Accursed Mountains,” Prokletije National Park is one of Montenegro’s finest hidden gems. It’s home to epic treks and shorter day hikes, an incredible place to immerse yourself in nature, peace, and quiet. Nestled within the entrance to the park is the tiny village of Grebaje Valley, where you can sleep in traditional katun lodgings, eat hearty mountain cuisine like kačamak, and spend your days hiking stunning trails like the Volusnica Loop “Three Peaks” route that begin right at your doorstep. But with limited vacation time and an itinerary that probably begins in coastal cities like Kotor, Budva, or Herceg Novi, you may be wondering – is it worth it to add Grebaje Valley to your trip?
In this post, we’ll help you decide by laying out everything you need to know about Grebaje Valley and Prokletije National Park. We’ll tell you how to get there, where to stay, the top things to do, and where to grab dinner after.
Quick Picks - Grebaje Valley Essentials
- How to Get to Grebaje Valley: Rent a car
- Where to Stay in Grebaje Valley: Bungalows Prokletije
- Best Restaurant in Grebaje Valley: Pavićević
- What to Do in Grebaje Valley: Hike the Volusnica Loop “Three Peaks” Trail
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Your Guide to Visiting Grebaje Valley, Montenegro - At a Glance:
Is Grebaje Valley Worth Visiting?
While we wouldn’t recommend planning a trip to Montenegro just for Grebaje Valley and Prokletije National Park, we absolutely think it’s worth a spot on your Montenegro road trip. The “Accursed Mountains” here are truly unique – dark and ominous from the outside, but some of the most beautiful and easy Montenegro hiking from within. It’s a quiet place where you can rest and recharge after busier days on the coast. Plus, it has a unique, heartier cuisine than what you’ll find in the beach towns as well.
One of the best things about Montenegro is how much incredible diversity is packed into such a tiny country. You can drive from one edge of the country to the other in under 5 hours and be treated to a huge variety of sites and scenery – from the sea and beaches of Budva to the biodiversity of Lake Skadar and the incredible mountains of Prokletije. So, if you’re already planning a visit to Kotor or Budva, adding a couple of days in Grebaje Valley is as easy as renting a car and hitting the road.
How to Get to Grebaje Valley & Prokletije National Park Montenegro
Your first step in getting to Grebaje Valley is going to be getting to Montenegro in general. There are two main airports in the country, the larger Podgorica Airport and the newer Tivat Airport. Which one you choose to fly into will depend on the rest of your Montenegro itinerary, but Podgorica is the closest one to Grebaje Valley.
Once you’ve arrived in Montenegro, you’ll need to rent a car to access Grebaje Valley. While Montenegro in general has a well-connected bus system, it doesn’t reach into Prokletije National Park. If you prefer to reserve your car in advance, we recommend renting with Booking.com, which compares all the top rental car companies in the area to find you the best price. Otherwise, you can rent in person when you arrive from a local shop. However, be aware that if you rent in person – and possibly even if you rent with Booking.com – it’s very possible that you’ll need to pay in cash, plus a deposit. When we visited, we paid 350 EUR (~$412) plus a 100 EUR (~$118) refundable deposit for a 10-day rental (the perfect Montenegro road trip length!). To avoid making the damage any worse, make sure to use our pro tip on withdrawing cash in foreign countries:
Pro-tip: When offered an exchange rate by an ATM, you can – and should – always decline the rate displayed. This rate often includes a heavy markup. In Montenegro, they add a standard 10%! on top of the market exchange rate. This means you are paying an extra $30 on a draw of 300 EUR, a fee that really adds up in a cash-based economy like this one. Declining the rate will not stop your transaction, but rather allow your personal bank to set the rate instead.
Where to Stay in Prokletje National Park, Montenegro
Technically, you’ve got a couple of options when choosing where to stay near Prokletije National Park. Obviously, our recommendation is Grebaje Valley, but you can also stay in nearby Gusinje. Gusinje is only about a 15 minute drive from the valley, and is a good option for those who want more modern amenities and creature comforts nearby. It’s a larger town, with more traditional hotels as well as bars and restaurants in walking distance.
However, in our opinion, you can’t beat waking up in the middle of the mountains themselves, and being able to walk straight onto the Montenegro hiking trails after breakfast. After all, you’re coming here for the nature, right? For that reason, we recommend staying in Grebaje Valley itself, and in particular, in a katun. A katun is a traditional shepherd’s home, now used in Montenegro as a lodging option similar to an eco-lodge or homestay. It’s definitely the most authentic way to experience the mountains of Prokletije, and typically involves an on-site restaurant with home-cooked, traditional meals.
Pro tip: Note that Grebaje Valley is situated within the boundaries of Prokletije National Park, so in order to access your lodging, you’ll need to pay for your park pass on the way in. Day passes for Prokletije cost 3 EUR (~$3.50), or you can buy an annual pass for all of Montenegro’s national parks for just 13.5 EUR (~$16). You can pay in cash on arrival, or buy in advance here.
During our visit, we stayed at Bungalows Prokletije and highly recommend it. The individual cabins were cute and cozy, with a hot water shower, kitchenette, and comfy beds. We also loved the private terrace attached to our unit, where we could sit and stargaze in the evenings.
- Budget Hotels & Apartments ($) – $25-$60 per night
- Mid-Range Apartments & Katuns ($$) – $60-$90 per night
- Luxury & Larger Stays ($$$) – $90+ per night (very few of these)
- Gusinje:
- Best Hotel in Gusinje – Kula Nekovic ($) – 9.2 average rating – rustic mountain lodge design with onsite bar, restaurant, and free parking
- Best for Large Groups – Apartman Muratagic ($$$) – 8.9 average rating – pet-friendly with 5 beds, fully-equipped kitchen, and laundry
- Grebaje Valley:
- Best for Couples – Bungalows Prokletije ($$) – 9.0 average rating – cute and cozy chalets with terraces and community firepit
- Best for Families with Kids – Bungalows Katun Maja Karanfil ($$) – 8.6 average rating – onsite bar and restaurants with a playground
- Best for Peace and Quiet – WildBeauty Grebaje ($$) – 9.0 average rating – newly built cabins with onsite restaurant at the end of the valley
What to Do in Grebaje Valley - Prokletije National Park Hiking
Before we get into the details, let’s get something straight. Prokletije National Park Montenegro is not somewhere you come with a giant checklist of activities to tackle. It’s a place you come to unwind, unplug, and embrace nature. There are a few core activities, but we encourage you to enjoy them slowly. Take your time and savor the slower pace of Grebaje Valley.
Pro Tip: As a reminder, if you decide to stay in Gusinje instead of Grebaje Valley, you’ll need to purchase your Prokletije National Park pass before you can take part in these activities. Day passes cost 3 EUR (~$3.50), or you can buy an annual pass for all of Montenegro’s national parks for just 13.5 EUR (~$16). You can pay in cash on arrival, or buy in advance here.
Volusnica Loop "Three Peaks" Trail
Hands down the best thing to do in Grebaje Valley is to hike the Volusnica Loop trail, also known as the “Tree Peaks” trail. This was our favorite hiking trail in Montenegro, and one of the best reasons to stay in Grebaje Valley versus Gusinje, as it begins just minutes from the doorstep of your lodgings.
The Volusnica hiking trail is 6-7 miles (9.5-11.5 km), with about 3,300 ft (1,000 m) of elevation gain. It’s a lollipop trail, and takes about 5 hours to complete. During the trek, you’ll summit three peaks – Mount Volusnica, Mount Taljanka, and Mount Popadja, but don’t be scared! While the incline is fairly aggressive, nearly the entire trail is soft, well-marked dirt, making both summiting and descending feel safe and manageable. Even our tiny dog Cali was able to hike the entire trail on her own! Anyone with a moderate level of physical fitness should be able to tackle it.
You’ll start with an ascent through the forest, and then hit a fork in the path once you exit the woods and reach the grassy bowl. You can do the route either clockwise or counter-clockwise, but we recommend counter-clockwise for the best views. Once you make it back to the fork, just head back down through the forest, then grab a celebratory beer at a nearby restaurant.
Pro tip: Enjoy a late breakfast and start this hike around 11am for the best views. If you start too early, the sun will blind your views of the Karanfili peaks.
If you’ve got the time for it, another great Montenegro hiking trail is the Kissing Cats Arch trail. Also starting in Grebaje Valley, it’s a 6-7.5 mile (10-12 km) out-and-back route with about 2,600-3,300 ft (800-1,000 m) of elevation gain. This trail is less trafficked than the more well-known Volusnica Loop hike, so it’s great for those looking for a more quiet trek through nature.
Like the Volusnica Loop hike, you’ll start with an ascent through the forest before reaching a more rocky, alpine terrain. From there, you’ll continue your ascent until you reach a natural arch formation that locals say looks like – you guessed it – two kissing cats. The arch frames amazing views of the surrounding peaks, a picture perfect finale well worth your effort. Though this trek covers a bit more rugged terrain than the Volusnica “Three Peaks” hike, you should still be able to handle it with a moderate fitness level.
Stroll Through Grebaje Valley
You don’t need to do a full day hike to appreciate the beauty of Prokletije National Park. In fact, one of the best ways to slow down and savor it is just to stroll through Grebaje Valley itself. With plenty of stunning photo ops in store, a leisurely walk through the valley is a great way to spend an hour. We recommend taking your morning coffee to go, or using the stroll to eat up that last hour before dinner!
Vusajne and Ropojana Valley
If your legs are tired and you’d like to see some epic Montenegro nature without hiking, drive yourself to nearby Vusanje and Ropojana Valley. Located just half an hour’s drive from Grebaje Valley, Vusanje and Ropojana Valley offer some great sites with minimal trekking. In a half-day visit to this area, you can check out the following attractions:
- Grlja Waterfall – a beautiful waterfall located just minutes from the roadside, perfect for an afternoon picnic
- Oko Skakavice – a small but gorgeous mountain “blue eye” lake, accessible via a a short and mostly flat 30-45 minute walk (~1.5 miles or 2-3 km round trip)
- Ali Pasha Springs – freshwater springs with clear, bubbling pools located right off the edge of the road. Make sure to grab some photos of the mountains reflected in the water!
The Best Places to Eat & Drink in Grebaje Valley
We’ll be honest with you – Grebaje Valley is a super small area, and has only a few solid restaurants where you can grab dinner or a drink. We’ll outline them below, but if you’re looking for more variety, you can always drive into nearby Gusinje, which has more options available.
During our visit to Grebaje Valley, the most solid restaurant we visited was Pavicevic. Their trout was delicious, and the views from the restaurant are incredible. Prices are a bit higher than you’ll find in other parts of Montenegro, but this is standard for Grebaje as it’s difficult to get to.
This traditional katun lodging also has an on-site restaurant that is open to non-guests. We stopped here for a beer after hiking Volusnica and found it warm and welcoming. The service was quick and friendly, and, while we didn’t eat here, those next to us were very complimentary. We heard the kačamak (a cornflour porridge typically drowning in butter and cheese, perfect for hungry hikers), in particular, was quite tasty.
We very, very, rarely post anything negative on our site, but we have to warn you not to visit this restaurant. While the ambiance and views were lovely, I was served a severely undercooked and inedible cut of lamb here, and when brought to the waiter’s attention, was treated with complete disrespect. They still charged us for the full plate, and I had to buy a second dinner at Pavicevic afterwards.
New Restaurants
Since our visit to the Valley, two new restaurants have opened that seem to be well-reviewed. While we can’t speak to their quality ourselves, they’re worth a shot if you’ve already visited the first two restaurants on our list:
- Wild Beauty – outdoor seating with great views. 4.6 stars on Google Maps, praised for delicious food and friendly owners, though a bit pricier.
- Royal Etno selo – cozy, rustic interior with a fireplace. 4.7 stars on Google Maps, praised for big portions, good prices, and tasty grilled meats.
FAQs for Visiting Grebaje Valley & Prokletije National Park, Montenegro
When is the Best Time to Visit Prokletije National Park?
In order to take advantage of the incredible hiking in Prokletije National Park Montenegro, you’ll want to visit during the summer months. June to September will be best, with May and October still workable as the shoulder season. Keep in mind that it will be noticeably cooler in this mountainous region than in coastal cities like Kotor and Budva.
How Many Days Do I Need in Grebaje Valley?
You can conquer the top activity in Grebaje Valley – hiking the Volusnica Loop trail – in one day. However, the Prokletije National Park area is a great place to slow down and soak in the nature. Plus, if you only plan for one day and you hit bad weather (this happened to us!), you’ll be out of luck. As such, we recommend two days in Grebaje Valley to give you time to relax and make sure you can hit the activities you want to.
Do Hotels & Restaurants in Grebaje Valley Accept Credit Card?
Montenegro in general is a pretty cash-heavy economy, and Grebaje Valley is even more so. In fact, everything we did in Grebaje Valley required cash – the restaurants, the park entrance fee, and even the hotel we reserved through Booking.com. Given this, you’ll want to plan to bring plenty of cash with you on your visit, as there also aren’t any easily accessible ATMs in the area.
Montenegro uses the Euro, so it’s fairly easy to get some in advance of your trip, otherwise you can always use an ATM before you get to town. But pay attention, or they’ll hit you with a hefty fee! Make sure to follow our pro tip above to avoid translation markups.
Should I Tip at Bars & Restaurants in Grebaje Valley?
Tipping is not standard in Montenegro, though rounding up here and there is always appreciated. If your waiter is specifically asking you for a tip, you’re in a tourist trap.
Can I Drink the Water in Montenegro?
Absolutely! Tap water throughout Montenegro is safe to drink, but especially so in this mountainous region.
What Kind of Outlets Are Used in Montenegro?
Montenegro uses the standard EU outlets. If you’re visiting from the US, we highly recommend this outlet converter from Amazon that will meet all your charging needs.
Do I Need a Visa to Visit Montenegro?
Citizens from most countries can enter Montenegro visa-free for at least 30 days and up to 90 days. To confirm whether Montenegro requires visas for visitors from your country, check their official site here.
Do I Need Travel Insurance to Visit Montenegro?
While it’s not required, we highly recommend it. You never know when something might go wrong, and it’s best to be prepared. We use and recommend SafetyWing, which is an especially good option for those traveling for a month or more. For as little as $63, it covers everything from lost luggage to hospital stays – a heck of a deal if you encounter any emergencies while abroad.
Do I Need to Speak Montenegrin to Visit Grebaje Valley?
Definitely not. We had no issues interacting with people in the service industry in English during our 3 months in Montenegro, though knowing a few key words will definitely win you some brownie points with the locals. Practice these ones before your trip:
- Hello – Zdravo – ZDRAH-voh
- Goodbye – Ciao – chow
- Please – Molim – MOH-leem
- Thank you – Hvala – HVAH-lah
- Excuse me (to call attention) – Izvini – is-VEE-nee
- Can I pay? – Mogu li platiti? – MOH-goo lee plah-TEE-tee
- The bill/check – Račun – RAH-choon
Where Else Should I Visit in Montenegro?
Wow, where do we begin! We lived in Montenegro for three months and experienced nearly everything this small but mighty country has to offer. We absolutely loved our time here, and highly recommend at a minimum that you check out the beautiful coastal city of Kotor. Also, if you like the incredible nature and hiking in Grebaje Valley, Montenegro then you’ll LOVE Durmitor National Park. But these two destinations are just the beginning! Other cities like Budva, Herceg Novi, Tivat, and Niksic all have something special to offer. Check out our city guides for these top destinations in Montenegro below:
- What To Do In Kotor: Your 2-Day Guide
- An Epic 3 Days in Durmitor National Park, Montenegro
- 3 Days in Budva: What to See During Your Trip to Montenegro
- 2 Days in Herceg Novi: The Perfect Montenegro Itinerary
- What to Do in Tivat: A Perfect Day Trip Itinerary
- One Day in Niksic: What to Do in Montenegro’s Second City
Are There Helpful Apps I Should Download Before I Visit Montenegro?
Absolutely! These are the top apps we recommend you download before your trip to Montenegro:
- Airalo – having full use of your phone while traveling is incredibly important! eSIM apps like Airalo make getting cell service anywhere you travel easy and affordable. If you haven’t used it before, you can use this Airalo code to get a discount on your first purchase.
- Google Translate – we recommend downloading the Croatian language (closest comparable available language) for offline use on Google Translate, so you can always communicate even if you lose cell service.
- Google Maps – for the same reason, we also recommend downloading the offline map of the city you’re visiting on Google Maps.
Which Travel Resources Should I Use to Plan My Trip to Montenegro?
For starters, use our site! Check out all of our Montenegro travel guides to help you decide where to go, what to do, and where to stay. We’ve got detailed itineraries and travel guides, plus recommendations on all our favorite bars, restaurants, and more.
Once you’re ready to plan your trip, we recommend the following resources:
- Flights – we use Google Flights and Skyscanner to book our flights. These resources help you compare all the airlines at once, plus give you tips on the best times to purchase. I use their price tracking features religiously to make sure we get the best deal.
- Hotels – we always use Booking.com for choosing hotel stays. We think they have the best prices, their star ratings are super reliable, and we love the perks we get with their rewards system.
- Transit – for those without a rental car, Montenegro has a very well-connected and affordable bus network with comfortable, air conditioned coaches. Routes and prices are detailed on their website, BusTicket4.me, which you can also use to purchase tickets online.
- Trip Planning – the most frequently opened app on our phone, regardless of our destination, is Wanderlog. This app makes travel planning SO easy. You can import all your flights, hotels, and transit information, add top sites to your itinerary, and even track and split your budget amongst your travel buddies. It also provides recommendations on where to visit and a map of all the attractions you plan to see, with transit time between each.
Final Thoughts on Grebaje Valley & Prokletije National Park Hiking
We hope this guide has convinced you that Grebaje Valley is definitely worth a visit! Prokletije National Park has some of Montenegro’s best hiking, and it’s not to be missed by nature lovers visiting the country. Whether you’re conquering Volusnica, strolling through the valley, or just lounging in your katun, Grebaje Valley is the perfect place to unwind in nature after a busy few days on the coast. Comment below any questions you have about visiting Grebaje Valley!
If this guide’s convinced you that you’d actually prefer a destination with a bit more lounging than trekking, make sure to check out some of our other Montenegro travel guides. For beach lovers, we recommend our Herceg Novi itinerary or Budva city guide, or for history lovers, you can’t miss gorgeous Kotor, perfect for a 2 day trip.
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