How to Spend a Day at Grotte de Glace
The Grotte de Glace, an ice cave in Chamonix's glacier the Mer de Glace, offers a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to walk through a living glacier. But there's even more fun to experience at this unique attraction! Read on for everything you need to know to plan your visit here.
Visiting the Grotte de Glace is one of the most incredible things you can do on a visit to Chamonix-Mont-Blanc (Chamonix), France in the summer. But there’s more to see here than just the Chamonix glacier! Taking the cogwheel Montenvers train to the Grotte de Glace, or “Cave of Ice,” is an activity on its own, and once you arrive, you can explore two museums, visit the historic Temple of Nature, eat at one of several onsite restaurants, and enjoy the nearby Signal Forbes hike. Needless to say, you can enjoy a whole day of fun and adventure at Mer de Glace!  In this post, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know to plan the perfect day at the Grotte de Glace – how to get there, what to see, and all the tips you need to know to make sure your day is picture perfect.
Looking for more ideas for your trip to Chamonix? We have a complete travel guide in our post The Top Things to Do in Chamonix in the Summer, along with in-depth guides on popular attractions like Aiguille du Midi, trekking the Tour du Mont Blanc, and paragliding through the French Alps. Click the links to learn all about it!
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What is the Grotte de Glace?
First off – what actually is the Grotte de Glace? This unique attraction is an artificial ice cave that is tunneled out of the Mer de Glace, the longest and largest glacier in France. Located on the northern slopes of the Mont Blanc massif, the Mer de Glace, or “Sea of Ice,” is 7.5 km (4.7 miles) long and 200 m (656 ft) deep. It’s the second-largest glacier in the Alps and was once easily visible from Chamonix, but due to climate change, it has rapidly shrunk in the last hundred years. Thanks to its easy visibility at the time, the Mer de Glace attracted a number of visitors, including scientists like physicist James David Forbes, who actually discovered that glaciers flow in a viscous manner in part based on his observations of the pattern of light and dark dirt bands of the Mer de Glace, now called Forbes bands.
All this attention drew tourists to the Chamonix glacier as well, and beginning in 1862, the residents of Chamonix began digging out a gallery to better enjoy this spectacular work of nature. Visitors can walk through curving tunnels, feel the ice beneath their fingers and dripping on their head, and admire ice sculptures and educational displays. As tourism increased, the site was built out with restaurants, museums, and lodging, and it now receives approximately 400,000 visitors per year. Over the years, the location of the cave has moved as the glacier has steadily retreated. It has been dug at its current location since 1988, but further retreat of the glacier threatens another move in the future, so the best time to visit the Grotte de Glace is certainly now.
How to Get There - The Montenvers Train or Grand Balcon Nord Hike
While the Montenvers train is the most popular – and our recommended – way to visit the Grotte de Glace, you can actually also access it via the popular Grand Balcon Nord hike. We’ll provide an overview of both options here.
Ride the Montenvers Train
The Montenvers Railway was the first custom-built tourist attraction in the Chamonix Valley, beginning operations in 1908. It’s an old-school cogwheel (rack-and-pinion) train, with large open windows that provide beautiful views of the mountains and the valley all the way up the steep 871 m (2,858 ft) ascent. The 5.1 km (3.2 miles) line departs from Gare Chamonix Train du Montenvers – right behind the Chamonix-Mont-Blanc SNCF station – and reaches the Gare du Montenvers Mer de Glace station in about 20 minutes. It’s a really enjoyable ride, with a rustic, old-world charm and plentiful opportunities to snag some stunning photos.Â
During peak season of late May to mid-September, the train runs from 8:30am to 5:00 or 5:30pm, with the last departure between 2:30pm and 3:30pm for those wishing to visit the Grotte de Glace – check the schedule here before departing. Trains run every hour, and round-trip tickets cost 31 EUR (~$35) for the train only or 41.2 EUR (~$47) for the train plus the gondola to the ice cave. Tickets are free for kids under 5 and discounted for kids aged 5-14 and seniors aged 65 or older – buy tickets here. If you’ve got the Mont Blanc Multipass, these tickets are included – learn more about it in our Chamonix city guide.
Hike the Grand Balcon Nord Trail
If you prefer to get your sweat on before visiting the Grotte de Glace, you can actually hike to it via the Grand Balcon Nord trail. The Grand Balcon Nord is one of the most popular hikes in Chamonix, and traverses 6.2 km (3.8 miles) from the Plan de l’Aiguille cable car station to the Montenvers train station. It’s mostly downhill, and also passes by a beautiful glacial “blue-eye” lake, Lac Bleu. With views of the valley to your left, the stunning Mont Blanc massif to your rear, and a stop at Lac Bleu along the way, there’ll be no shortage of natural beauty to feast your eyes – and your camera lens – on as you make the journey to the Grotte de Glace.
To make this trek, you’ll first need to ride the Aiguille du Midi cable car up to Plan de l’Aiguille (22.5 EUR or ~$26 for a one-way ticket, or included in Mont Blanc Multipass), and then take the Montenvers train back down to Chamonix after your visit to the ice cave (26 EUR or ~$30 for a one-way ticket, or 34.5 EUR or ~$39 for a one-way ticket plus entrance to the ice cave, or included in Mont Blanc Multipass). It’s a bit more expensive than just taking the Montenvers train round-trip, but if you like to hike and have the time for it, it is absolutely worth it. Learn more about this hike from our friends at Earth Trekker if you’re interested in tackling it.
Attractions at the Grotte de Glace
As we mentioned in the intro, there is way more to a visit to the Grotte de Glace than just the ice cave. Here’s an overview of all the attractions on site for you to enjoy.
Grotte de Glace
Let’s start with the main attraction – the ice cave itself. Visiting the Grotte de Glace is truly a remarkable experience. After arriving at the visitors’ center, you’ll walk downstairs, through a brief museum on mountaineering and climate change (more on that below), and then take a short gondola ride down to the Mer de Glace glacier. Unfortunately, the journey ends there for anyone with accessibility issues, as you’ll then need to walk down approximately 170 steel-grate stairs to reach the mouth of the cave.
Pro tip: Both the Montenvers train and the Grotte de Glace are dog-friendly, however not all pups will be comfortable walking down the steel-grate stairs. I chose to carry Cali down so she didn’t struggle with her paws on the wide grates. If your dog is too big to carry, consider packing them some shoes to wear.
Once you’ve reached the glacier, you can take as long as you like perusing the tunnels. Expect to see shockingly blue colors – nothing like the dirty white surface of the glacier – as you marvel at the architectural feat. Admire the ice sculptures scattered along the path and read educational placards about how the tunnels are dug, the movement of the glacier, and other interesting factoids. Being able to touch the walls and feel the ice drip onto your shoulders is unlike anything we’ve ever experienced, and you truly cannot miss it when visiting Chamonix. We had a hard time walking away, wanting to live in that moment as long as possible!
Opening hours for the Grotte de Glace vary throughout the season, but are generally from 9:30/10:00am to 4:30/5:00pm – check the schedule here. Tickets cost 26 EUR (~$30), unless you have already purchased tickets as part of a train combo ticket as discussed above.
Museum on Mountaineering and Climate Change
This small exhibit is located within the main building, and you’ll pass through it on your way to the gondola. We found it super interesting, and encourage you to take your time exploring it. About half of the museum is dedicated to the history of mountaineering on the surrounding peaks – Mont Blanc, Les Drus, Les Grands Jorasses, and the Aiguille du Grepon. You’ll learn about the people who first summitted them, the dangers they faced, and advances in mountaineering since then. The other half of the museum offers a glimpse into the history of the Mer de Glace and the impact of climate change on the glacier. It was fascinating – and somewhat terrifying – to learn how far the glacier has receded in the last hundred years, as well as scientists’ predictions for its future. It was a sobering but important exhibit that made visiting the Chamonix glacier even more impactful.
Entrance to this museum is included in the price of your Grotte de Glace ticket.
Glaciorium
A larger museum located in a separate building from the main gondola station, the Glaciorium offers a more in-depth look into the Mer de Glace and the impacts of climate change. Here you can learn all about the history of Chamonix’s glacier, how it was formed, and how climate change will continue to impact its future. This museum also dives more into the science of glaciology, perfect for curious kids and adults alike to get a better understanding of how these massive natural formations occur. Entrance to the Glaciorium is also included in the price of your Grotte de Glace ticket.
Temple of Nature
The Temple of Nature is a historical building originally built as a refuge for visitors that had traveled to admire the Mer de Glace glacier. It now serves as a small theater, showing projection videos that discuss the history of the building and the Montenvers area. Originally constructed in 1795, it served as one of the first mountain refuges in the Alps, and it’s welcomed many visitors over its history, including famous writers Victor Hugo and Chateaubriand. Thanks to loving restorations over the years, you can include yourself in the ranks of these notable tourists. The Temple of Nature is free to enter.
Signal Forbes Hike
One of our top recommendations for a day at Grotte de Glace is to add on the nearby Signal Forbes hike. The trailhead is located just a few minutes walk from the main building near the Temple of Nature, and only takes about 90 minutes to complete. It’s an out-and-back trail that’s 2.9 km (1.8 miles) long and gains about 300 m (1,000 ft) of elevation, and the bang-for-your-buck here is top-notch. For just a moderate effort, the reward is excellent, with jaw-dropping views and photo ops. Make sure to take a few minutes to soak it all in once you reach the summit! The trail is well-marked and very popular, so we recommend doing this first thing upon arriving at the Montenvers train station to avoid the crowds and the mid-day heat. Dogs welcome!
Dining
There are several dining options onsite for you to enjoy during your visit:
- Bar des Glaciers – best for those on a budget or in a hurry, Bar des Glaciers is a cafeteria-style option located in the main building. They offer salads, sandwiches, pastries, and other quick-serve dishes.
- Le Panoramique Mer de Glace – also located in the main building, Le Panoramique offers a more luxurious dining experience. Here, you’ll be treated with floor-to-ceiling windows offering stunning views of the glacier and the surrounding mountains. Expect a higher price tag, but also more elevated, freshly cooked dishes like veal blanquette and Savoyard pork hotpot.
- Restaurant Grand Hotel du Montenvers – located in the nearby Grand Hotel du Montenvers, this restaurant features a terrace with views of Les Drus and Les Grands Jorasses mountains. Here you can dine on classic Savoyard dishes in a rustic setting, and stop by the hotel’s museum featuring a collection of period photographs and objects after your meal.
How to Plan the Perfect Visit
Before you head up the mountain, we’ve got a few tips to share to help you make the most of your day.
What to Bring and How to Dress
There are a few things you’ll want to make sure you bring and/or wear to make your day at Grotte de Glace as comfortable and enjoyable as possible:
- Hiking boots – ideally, you’ll want to wear hiking boots to the Grotte de Glace. This is especially true if you’ll also be tackling Signal Forbes during your visit, but they’re still the best choice even if you’re just visiting the ice cave. This is because the floor of the Grotte is quite cold and wet. While there is carpeting to help avoid the risk of slipping, continual drips from the ceiling of ice will make for a very uncomfortable visit if your shoes aren’t waterproof. The steel-grate stairs will also prove tricky for heels or sandals.
- Rain jacket – even though you’re gaining some altitude on the way to Montenvers, it will likely still be quite warm in the summer. However, the Grotte de Glace is another story. You’ll be walking through a tunnel of ice, so expect the temperature to drop. More importantly though, you’ll want a waterproof jacket to help avoid the chill of the icy-cold dripping water.
- Sunglasses and sunblock – you’ll be gaining altitude, and the light reflecting off the snow can be quite intense, so make sure you’ve got proper protection.
- Camera – don’t miss out on capturing shots of your epic adventure!
- Water bottle – make sure to stay hydrated if you’re adding on the Signal Forbes hike.
Pro tip:Â There is a water spigot with potable water on the northeast corner of the visitors’ center where you can refill your bottle.
- Fido – feel free to bring your pup along! All the attractions (outside of the Glaciorium) are dog-friendly, though make sure your dog has shoes or can be carried down the steel-grate stairs to the ice cave.
The Ideal Order of Events
We recommend a specific order of events to optimize your day. All in, expect to spend about 6-7 hours at Montenvers if you visit all of the attractions.
- Montenvers train – while we love a hike, if you choose to visit all the attractions at Grotte de Glace you’ll already have a full day. Plus, the cogwheel train is charming and the views are lovely. (20 minutes)
- Signal Forbes hike – we know, you can’t wait to get to the ice cave, but trust us, you’ll be happy you avoided the crowds and the mid-day sun. We did the hike last and the heat was brutal. (90 minute hike plus 30 minutes for photos)
- Museum on Mountaineering and Climate Change – stop by on the way to the Grotte de Glace. (20 minutes)
- Grotte de Glace – take the gondola and then the steel-grate stairs down, peruse the tunnels, and then head back up. (60 minutes)
- Lunch – we recommend the Restaurant Grand Hotel du Montenvers. (90 minutes)
- Glaciorium – stop by to learn more about the Mer de Glace that you just witnessed first-hand. (30 minutes)
- Temple of Nature – a quick stop to round out your day and see this neat piece of history. (15 minutes)
- Montenvers train – head back to downtown Chamonix and enjoy your evening in this adorable alpine village! Heads up – this was the only part of the day that included a wait. It moves pretty quickly, but be prepared to stand in line for a bit. (20 minutes)Â
In Conclusion...
It’s not every day you can walk inside of a glacier, but it’s one you’ll remember for the rest of your life. We hope this guide helps you plan the perfect visit to the Grotte de Glace and that you enjoy your time there as much as we did! Share your favorite memory from the Grotte de Glace in the comments below.
As a reminder, we’ve got everything you need to help plan your trip to Chamonix in our guide here, along with in-depth posts on some of the top attractions, including Aiguille du Midi, the Tour du Mont Blanc, and paragliding through the French Alps. We’re here to help make planning your vacation easy!
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