All About The Traditional Food of Florence
Florence is the beating heart of Tuscany, a region with a variety of traditional food that might not be what you're expecting of classic "Italian" fare.
Oh, food. My favorite part of any trip, I could talk about it all day. And let me tell you, when it comes to Florence, there is plenty to talk about! Let’s get into it and learn about the traditional food of Florence.
If you’ve never been to Florence or the Tuscany region, you may be a bit surprised by what comes to your table, but don’t let that disappoint you! While they may not be known for their pizza (hello, Naples) or have the best pasta in the country (looking at you, Rome), Florence has a rich culinary tradition that is as varied as it is tasty.Â
Like other regions in Italy, Florentine food has been significantly influenced by its history, geography and topography, and tradition. Said another way, Italians focus on what grows best locally, specialize in it, and then hold tight to it with a religious fervor. This is one of the main reasons food in Italy is so excellent! You’ll notice when traveling Italy that each region is deeply possessive of their traditions, often shying away from change, and (understandably) very proud of their region’s food and culture. When it comes to Florence specifically, let’s highlight a few aspects of the history, geography and topography, and tradition that impact the types of dishes you’ll see on the menu in the trattorias and osterias (the restaurants serving traditional Italian food) of Florence.
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History
Tuscan cuisine has been significantly impacted by two dichotomous forces: first, that Florence was a wealthy and significant trade center since at least the Middle Ages, and second, that the rest of Tuscany was largely rural and poor. This meant that much of the traditional food of the region came from humble roots, but was able to benefit from spices, exotic foods, and techniques brought in through international trade.
The Wealthy...
When it came to wealth, Florence had that in spades. The city was a center for trade in the Middle Ages and quickly grew to become one of the wealthiest cities in the world under the supervision of the Medici family in the 15th and 16th centuries. Â
If you don’t know much about the Medici family, suffice it to say that they had the most profound influence on the city of Florence of any ruler in its history. They were a wealthy banking family that are often credited with funding and cultivating the birth of the Renaissance. The Medici founded a neo-platonic academy where they encouraged (and funded) philosophers, artists, and even chefs, to experiment and innovate. Their expensive tastes also led to the popularization of wild boar, or cinghiale, which remains one of the key dishes in Tuscan cuisine today. Even better, the origins of gelato can be traced back to the family, with a man named Cosimo Ruggeri being credited with creating one of the first gelato, fior di latte, at the court of Catherine de’ Medici!
And the Agrarian...
On the other hand, the rest of Tuscany was – and still largely is – agrarian. The majority of Tuscans were historically rural laborers who worked the land, tended livestock, and relied on what could be grown, raised, or foraged locally. They had limited means and focused on humble ingredients that were abundant and inexpensive, like grains, beans, and dairy products. Thrift and ingenuity played a large role as well, making sure that every last drop was used. Their foods featured things like stale bread and offal – animal innards like tripe and spleen – that are considered waste products in some countries. In my opinion, this focus on thrift is one of the most distinguishing elements of Tuscan cuisine, and led to my personal favorite dish, pappa al pomodoro. These peasant origins were hugely impactful on the cuisine of the region, and are still apparent at even the fanciest restaurants in Florence today.
Geography and Topography
If you’ve ever drooled over a photo of one of Tuscany’s many gorgeous wineries, all rolling green hills and Italian Cypress trees, you can already begin to get an understanding of why Tuscany is such an agricultural powerhouse for the country. Compared to other regions of Italy, Tuscany has a more gentle landscape, with fertile soils and a temperate Mediterranean climate. This makes it ideal for raising cattle as well as growing a large variety of produce, most notably grapes and olives, but also key elements of the Tuscan cuisine like wheat and beans. Â
Beef and dairy products from cattle rearing play a large role in Tuscan cuisine and its reputation for excellence, driven primarily by Chianina cattle, which are known for their large size and high-quality beef that is prized for its tenderness and flavor. Meanwhile, grapes and olives grow exceptionally well here due to the weather and the hilly terrain. The slopes offer excellent drainage and exposure to sunlight, leading to some of the most extraordinary wine and olive oil in the world.
Tradition
If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, right? Some would argue this is a sentiment Italians take too far, but when it comes to the food, I’m grateful. Traditional recipes have been handed down, largely unchanged, from generation to generation, preserving the flavors and techniques of the original dishes. These same recipes are also closely guarded, meaning if you find a dish you love, it’s worth it to try it at another osteria or trattoria as well, just in case their nonna’s recipe is slightly different. Â
Our only complaint? The bread. For centuries, the bread in Tuscany has been made without salt, leaving it a little on the bland and dense side. It’s believed this was due to a few reasons throughout the years, including trade disruptions, tax disputes, and economic hardship. The leading theory among Florentines though? Their own stubbornness and rebellious spirit. Rather than concede or negotiate when rival Pisa blocked the shipment of salt to Florence in the 12th century, they just started making bread without it – or so the story goes – and thanks to tradition, they still do.
Traditional Food of Florence
So what are the key dishes you’ll see on a trattoria or osteria menu in Florence, and should you try them? Let’s get into it.
Antipasti
A traditional Italian menu is separated into antipasti (appetizers), primi (pasta, rice, and soup dishes), secondi (meats and fish), contorni (vegetables), and dolci (sweets), so I’ll do the same here.
There are several antipasti dishes signature to Florence, though some are more frequently found than others:
- Pappa al pomodoro – a comforting tomato soup made with stale bread, garlic, basil, and olive oil. This dish was my absolute favorite of the region, so cozy and hearty, and a great example of “waste not, want not.” A must try!
- Ribollita – another hearty Tuscan soup made with stale bread, as well as regional classic cannelini beans, and other vegetables.
- Pecorino cheese – while
you may be familiar with this sheep’s milk cheese from your local grocery store, trust me when I tell you it is far creamier and more flavorful in Tuscany. Try it with some high-quality balsamic for a dreamy experience. - Crostini neri or Crostini di fegatini – this is bruschetta, but topped with a creamy and dark chicken liver paté rather than tomatoes, meats, or cheses.
- Panzanella – a refreshing salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions, basil, and – you guessed it – stale bread, dressed in olive oil and vinegar. I saw this touted all over the internet as a classic dish, but we were unable to find a spot that included it on the menu. If you’re interested in trying it, you might want to seek it out specifically.Â
you may be familiar with this sheep’s milk cheese from your local grocery store, trust me when I tell you it is far creamier and more flavorful in Tuscany. Try it with some high-quality balsamic for a dreamy experience.Primi
While Florence is more famous for its secondi dishes than its primi, this one is a killer. And don’t worry, you’ll still find loads of excellent pasta on the menu, including many featuring local truffles:
- Pappardelle al cinghiale – wide ribbon pasta served with a rich, slow-cooked wild boar ragù. Absolutely delectable.
Secondi
Secondi dishes are where Florence shines, most notably for their world famous steak:
- Bistecca alla Fiorentina – an absolutely must-order, and Colby’s favorite dish, the Florentine steak is a thick, T-boned steak of Chianina cattle that is simply seasoned and barely grilled (and no, they won’t cook it well-done for you, trust the chef on this one). The meat is cut in slabs as thick as a matchstick is long, and only salted with large coarse salt after it has been cooked. The steak comes in big portions and won’t be cut smaller to suit you (we tried, and were told simply “no”), so come prepared with a friend and a big appetite!
- Lampredotto – one of Florence’s offal dishes, lampredotto is a traditional street food dish, often served as a sandwich, made from the fourth stomach of the cow. It’s quite tasty, but the texture may be offputting to some.
- Tripa alla Fiorentina – another offal dish, this one is tripe, or the stomach lining of a cow, cooked with tomatoes, onions, and herbs.
- Coniglio arrosto morto – not as commonly found, this dish is roasted rabbit flavored with garlic, rosemary, and white wine.
lampredotto is a traditional street food dish, often served as a sandwich, made from the fourth stomach of the cow. It’s quite tasty, but the texture may be offputting to some.Contorni
Unfortunately, for those of us on a diet, there isn’t a huge emphasis on vegetables in Florence (or the rest of Italy for that matter). You’ll be hard-pressed to find a decent salad in this country. However, what you’ll find plenty of in Florence is the region’s staple: beans, beans, and more beans, including this classic:
- Fagioli all’uccelletto – a hearty dish featuring cannellini beans stewed with tomatoes, garlic, and sage.
Dolci
Most restaurants in Florence will only have one or two dolci on the menu, often including fruit or a small cake. However, on every corner you can find some delicious gelato, and where better to eat gelato than in its birthplace! However, with hundreds of gelato shops to choose from, and many taking advantage of the seemingly infinite flow of uninformed tourists, how do you make sure you’re getting the good stuff? Look for shops with limited flavors, flat or covered containers (displays with sky high gelato, while pretty, means they are fluffed full of air), and natural looking colors – for example, pistachio should be a muddy, earthy brown, and mint should be a pale green or white.
So, which traditional foods of Florence should you try? All of them, if you’re brave enough! See our full list of restaurant recommendations in Florence here and, if you need help planning your trip, see our city guide here. Comment below what your favorite dishes were!
Prefer a local to show you the ropes? Try one of these Florence food tours from our favorite tour organizer, Get Your Guide:
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