What to Eat in Naples: 20 Traditional Dishes You’ll Love
More than just the birthplace of pizza, Naples and the Campania region are a foodie haven for seafood and all things carby, fried, and comforting.
As a self-proclaimed foodie, sampling the traditional cuisine of the region is my favorite part of any trip. Thankfully, during our time in Naples I was not disappointed. Though it can get a bit one-note when you live there for a whole month, when you’re visiting for a week or two there is plenty of variety to keep your plate interesting! Let’s get into it and learn all about what to eat in Naples – the traditional dishes of the region, and how they came to be.
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How We Got Here
Like other regions in Italy, Neapolitan food has been significantly influenced by its history, geography and topography, and tradition. Said another way, Italians focus on what grows best locally, specialize in it, and then hold tight to it with a religious fervor. This is one of the main reasons food in Italy is so excellent! You’ll notice when traveling Italy that each region is deeply possessive of their traditions, often shying away from change, and (understandably) very proud of their region’s food and culture. When it comes to Naples specifically, let’s highlight a few aspects of the history, geography and topography, and tradition that impact the types of dishes you’ll see on the menu in the trattorias and osterias (the restaurants serving traditional Italian food) of Naples.
History
Naples is an old city, originally founded as Neapolis by the Ancient Greeks in the 8th century BCE, and it’s changed hands quite a few times since then. As an important crossroads of the Mediterranean, the Greeks, Romans, Normans, Spaniards, and French all had their turn ruling Naples. This complex history, in turn, shaped its cuisine. For example, the French introduced refined pastries, while the Spanish and Arabs brought ingredients like tomatoes, peppers, and spices, now staples in Neapolitan cuisine.
Economic factors, particularly poverty and social class, also played a crucial role in shaping Neapolitan food. Throughout much of its history, Naples has had a significant portion of its population living in poverty.Â
Unlike in Florence, where the poor folk were largely farmers who could rely on what they could grow, raise, or forage locally (see our post All About The Traditional Food of Florence to learn more), Neapolitans were city folk. So where Florentines dealt with their economic hardship with the use of ingredients like beans and dairy, which were inexpensive and abundant to them, Neapolitans leaned on what they had – carbs. Pasta and bread, particularly fried bread, were filling and inexpensive, with the added benefit of sanitation. Frying is a great disinfectant, after all! Street food like pizza fritti (fried pizza) and cuoppo di fritti (a cone of fried treats) became the meals of the working class, along with pasta dishes like pasta e patate con provola (pasta with potatoes and cheese) and ragù Napoletano (pasta with meat sauce), which were designed to make the most of limited resources.Â
If this all sounds like it’s leading to the origin story of pizza, then your spidey-senses are on point. More on this later.
Geography and Topography
The cuisine of Naples and the Campania region benefits from two opposing forces of nature – fire and water.
On behalf of fire, we have Mount Vesuvius. Always in view, its many eruptions throughout history have provided Naples with incredibly fertile volcanic soil. This soil is responsible for yielding high-quality produce like San Marzano tomatoes, which are prized the world over. It also created lush pastures in the surrounding countryside, particularly the Sorrentine peninsula. These pastures support the production of excellent dairy products like creamy and rich buffalo mozzarella. These two ingredients alone play a significant role in the cuisine of Naples.
On the other hand, we have water – the Bay of Naples, to be precise. The city’s proximity to the sea ensures a steady supply of fresh seafood, integral to many traditional dishes. Seafood staples like clams, mussels, and octopus are central to dishes such as spaghetti alle vongole, zuppa di cozze, and polpo alla Luciana. Having access to fresh fish caught daily allows the chefs of the city to prepare the seafood simply, letting natural flavors shine through.
Tradition
In Italy, much of life is driven by the same motto – if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, right? Some would argue this is a sentiment Italians take too far, but when it comes to the food, I’m grateful. Traditional recipes have been handed down, largely unchanged, from generation to generation, preserving the flavors and techniques of the original dishes. These same recipes are also closely guarded, meaning if you find a dish you love, it’s worth it to try it at another osteria or trattoria as well, just in case their nonna’s recipe is slightly different. Â
When it comes to Naples specifically, their food culture is a reflection of their own society – straightforward, vibrant, and communal. Neapolitan cuisine is characterized by its simplicity and reliance on fresh, high-quality ingredients. Their philosophy is to let the natural flavors of the ingredients shine, without overcomplicating things – think the iconic Pizza Margherita. However, simple doesn’t mean boring. Neapolitans love bold flavors, something that can pack a punch even on the go, which you’ll find in all manner of tasty street food. But when it comes down to it, Neapolitans’ most important belief is that food is about bringing people together. Meals like ragù Napoletano, for example, take hours to stew and prepare. For a people whose view is that cooking is as much about the process and shared experience with loved ones as it is about the food itself, these are hours well spent.
The Story of Pizza
Let’s take a quick moment to dive a little deeper on one of the world’s most famous foods – pizza.Â
Pizza, though popular the world over now, had humble beginnings in the streets of Naples. In the 18th century, pizza was a simple, affordable food for the city’s poor, made with basic ingredients like flour, water, and tomatoes. This is not something that anyone with money would have been eating – it was a very basic food, barely more than fried bread. However, it was cheap and filling, and could be prepared quickly and easily. On top of that, it was something safe to eat. For the city’s poor and working class, all packed together with limited sewage and sanitation, pizza played a role in disease prevention. During cholera outbreaks, frying the dough was a practical way to purify it, making pizza a safer food option for the masses. Â
The modern pizza began to take shape in 1889, when King Umberto I and Queen Margherita of Savoy visited Naples. A local pizzaiolo, Raffaele Esposito, was asked to craft a variety of local pizzas. After sampling them all, the Queen picked her favorite – a simple pizza featuring tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil, to represent the colors of the Italian flag. Esposito named his creation the Pizza Margherita, in her honor, and royal approval elevated the status of pizza from a peasant’s meal to a dish of national pride. The pizzeria responsible for this achievement?  Pizzeria Brandi, still in business today over 260 years later! Learn more about it in our post 20 Top Places to Eat and Drink in Naples.
Despite its royal endorsement, pizza remained primarily a Neapolitan specialty until the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when many Neapolitans emigrated to the United States. They brought their culinary traditions with them, and pizza quickly gained popularity in American cities with large Italian populations. By 1905, the first pizzeria had opened in New York City, and the dish began to spread across the country. Today, it’s one of the most recognizable and frequently eaten foods on the planet.
What to Eat in Naples
So what are the key dishes you’ll see on a trattoria or osteria menu in Naples? Let’s get into it.
Street Food
A traditional Italian menu is separated into antipasti (appetizers), primi (pasta, rice, and soup dishes), secondi (meats and fish), contorni (vegetables), and dolci (sweets). Since street food is such a big part of Naples cuisine, I’ll be covering that, plus primi, secondi, and dolci.Â
Street food is arguably what Naples is most known for. Here are some of the top items you should try:
- Taralli ‘nzogna e pepe – a savory biscuit made with lard, black pepper, and almonds, typically baked in a twisted ring shape. These are a common snack served with drinks during aperitivo and can come in a variety of flavors. In fact, Taralleria Napoletana is a whole store dedicated to these, located on Spaccanapoli.
- Cuoppo di fritti – the epitome of street food, this consists of a paper cone filled with a variety of fritti, or “fried things,” like arancini (stuffed rice balls), frittatine di pasta (spaghetti cakes), and crocche (potato croquettes). The most famous cuoppo are from Passione di Sofi, but to us, the taste didn’t match the hype.
- Pizza margherita – we all know Naples is known for pizza, but the margherita is the most iconic. Neapolitan pizza is cooked in a wood-fired stone oven at a high heat of 800 to 900 degrees Fahrenheit (427 to 482 Celsius) for only 60 to 90 seconds. This results in a thin, airy crust and ingredients cooked just enough to meld them together perfectly. Eat it with a knife and fork if you don’t want any side-eye from the locals.
- Pizza fritti – a variation on traditional pizza, fried pizza is exactly what it sounds like. Pizza is stuffed with ingredients and deep-fried, resulting in a puffy pizza pastry. It’s not for everyone, but it’s a must-try.
Primi
The City of Carbs (trademark pending) has a plethora of amazing primi dishes traditional to the region. If ever in doubt of what to eat in Naples, you can’t go wrong with any of these:
- Penne putanesca – a robust pasta with a sauce made of tomatoes, olives, capers, anchovies, and garlic. Its bold flavors and quick preparation make it a staple of Neapolitan cuisine.
- Gnocchi alla Sorentina – potato gnocchi baked in a simple sauce of tomato, mozzarella, and basil. The trick to this one is finding a restaurant with gnocchi that are light and airy, not dense and chewy. It’s worth giving the dish a second shot if you swing and miss the first time.
- Spaghetti alle vongole – spaghetti with clams, olive oil, garlic, and white wine. If, like me, you’ve had this dish elsewhere in the past and found it to be fairly fishy or oily, you’re in for a treat. Here, the clams are tiny and the sauce is perfectly light and balanced.
Pasta Nerano
- Pasta Nerano –Â a simple but flavorful dish made with zucchini, provolone cheese, and basil.Â
- Ragù Napoletano – different from the ragù of Rome or other regions, ragù Napoletano features large chunks of slow-cooked meat, more like a pot roast. Rich and hearty, it will keep you full and warm on a cold day.
- Scialatielli ai frutti di mare – a very traditional type of pasta, scialatielli are thick, short noodles. You’ll find these with other sauces too, but frutti di mare is a common topping composed of a variety of seafood.
- Pasta e patate con provola – another warm, hearty, comfort food dish, this is made of potatoes and provolone cheese. The potato adds a slight graininess that makes the cheesy sauce feel more elevated than a simple mac and cheese.
- Pasta alla genovese – my absolute favorite dish of the region, this sauce is made of slow-cooked onion and meat. Imagine if French onion soup had a baby with a pot roast, and then that baby made love to some fresh-cooked pasta. Prepare to drool.
Secondi
Secondi dishes traditional to Naples are primarily seafood based, though there are some other standouts:
- Zuppa di Cozze – technically an antipasti on most menus, this mussel soup with a tomato, garlic, and chili pepper broth is more than enough for a meal. We never really understood why it’s not considered a main, but we ate it as our dinner on many occasions.Â
- Polpo alla Luciana – this dish consisting of octopus stewed with tomatoes, garlic, and olives was named after the fishermen of the Santa Lucia district, highlighting the region’s maritime tradition. You’ll see quite a lot of octopus on the menu, along with prawns, crabs, and fish fillet. Really, your seafood options in this city are endless.
- Salsiccia e friarielli – this simple dish is sausage and friarielli, a vegetable native to the region. It’s a bitter green, similar to broccoli rabe. The friarielli is an acquired taste, but we loved the sausage.
- Parmigiana di melanzane – the classic, eggplant Parmesan, is made of layers of fried eggplant, tomato sauce, mozzarella, and Parmesan cheese. Eggplant is a prolific ingredient in Naples and can be found in everything from sauces to contorni dishes to pizzas.
Dolci
Naples has a love of pastries, and there are many that are specifically associated with various holidays and festivals. Here are some that you’ll see any day of the year:
- Graffe – a doughnut made with potatoes and flour and coated with granulated sugar. These may look like an ordinary yeast doughnut, but the addition of potatoes to the batter changes the texture in a wonderful way.
- Sfogliatella – also called “lobster tails,” these pastries are shell-shaped and typically filled with ricotta cheese and candied fruit, though you can also find savory versions. The pastry layers are crisp and slightly oily, providing a great crunching contrast to the soft, creamy, interior.
- Baba al rum – served for breakfast or dessert, baba al rum is a sponge cake soaked in rum syrup. Moist and boozy, it points to the influence of French culture on Naples’ cuisine.
- Zeppole di San Giuseppe – traditionally enjoyed on St. Joseph’s Day, these deep-fried dough balls filled with custard or sweet ricotta became so popular they are now served year-round. More artisanal shops will add various flavors to the fillings, like pistachio or mandarin.
So, what to eat in Naples on your next visit? As much as you can fit in your stomach! Comment below which dishes are your favorite and where you ate them, and see our other posts 20 Top Places to Eat and Drink in Naples and Your 2-5 Day Naples Itinerary for our personal restaurant recommendations and help planning your trip. Cheers!
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